The Model Garage

Jaws Shark Version 1

2011-08-29T22:42:00.001-07:00

1/3 Scale Han in Carbonite

2011-08-28T22:36:00.000-07:00

I've been working on this for a bit but haven't had a chance to post. I really didn't have the room for a full size replica of Han in Carbonite so I decided to make one at 1/3 scale. I started by sculpting Han out of Super Sculpey.

It was tough getting the likeness, it was the first time I had tried anything like that. For a reference I purchased a cast of the original prop.

I learned a trick from one of the EFX forums online. I took a picture of my sculpture and one of the prop and super imposed them over eachother in Photoshop. This really helped show where things where right and wrong. I also did a side by side comparison.

After I was happy with the sculpture I moved on to the box. I made it from 1/8" MDF.

There are several control panels that line both sides (4 on each side). On the original prop a dasboard from a car was used and modified. Since I didn't have a 1/3 scale car I had to sratchbuild one.

All eight of the panels were made from the same form and then modified t look different. Instead of making eight from scratch I molded the original in silicone and cast them in resin.

From there I matched the details from he original prop and attached them to the model.

More & More Sharks

2011-01-11T20:35:00.000-08:00

Just another incarnation of the shark...

Sharks and More Sharks

2010-09-04T11:32:00.000-07:00

I had the molds from the commision build so I decided to go ahead and use them to make another display piece. I really like the paint on this one better than the last. This is partly because I strayed from the color of the movie shark and had my own interpretation. This one is going up on EBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=280557641144&Category=4249&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D1

Shark Casting

2010-03-14T23:10:00.000-07:00

The shark is coming along really well. The molds are complete and the first cast came out needing only minor fixes along the seam line.

After working on the seams I primed the entire model. It was then that I wasn't happy with the results. Alot of the detail on the sculpture was just too harsh. It just wasn't what I had intended so I took a gamble and tried something. I picked up a bottle of Golden Extra Heavy Matte Medium and mixed it with some gray paint. This made the consistency of the paint the same as tooth paste. When I painted it on the surface if filled in alot of the deep line and made them shallow. This was exactly what I wanted to happen and it did!

Don't forget to shake well!

2010-02-10T22:54:00.001-08:00

The sculpture is almost complete so I've started molding some of the parts. I kept all of the fins separate from the body and have molded them.

Next I have to mold the inside of the mouth which I'm hoping to have done before the weekend. I did run in to a problem when molding the fins and it was completely my own fault and a really bone head move. I simply forgot to shake the catalyst before I mixed it into the silicone. The result was only half my mold cured and the other half remained a gelatinous blob - not good.

Instead of letting this set me back I just got back to work and fixed the problem. I removed the sculptures from the silicone and cleaned them up. This is easier said then done with silicone so I wiped off as much as I could and then I soaked them in some De-Limone. This stuff is pretty potent but it's the only thing I've used that can clean off silicone. It smells alot like Goof-Off. The worst part of the whole thing was the wasted silicone which isn't cheap.

Finally!! A New Post!

2010-02-03T08:10:00.000-08:00

Happy Belated New Year! It has been far too long since I have updated this post but it has not been because of a lack of projects. Awhile ago I started work on a Studio Scale Probe Droid from ESB.

Somewhere along the way I go side tracked and decided to build a CNC Router for my shop. This has been a really interesting project and I will continue updates ans construction progresses.

But the project that has taken precedent is a commission from the person that purchased the Orca from me. He has asked me to do a piece to compliment the Orca which would resemble a scene in the film.

This is a bit of a challenge because in order to match the model the shark would have to be 24" long. I have begun the sculpture of the shark and once approved I will be molding it soon. The biggest obstacle ahead is going to be the depth of the water. Most of the crystal clear products out there are highly toxic and I don't wish to use them in my garage. I will be testing a few different options so stay tuned for that.

Bon Voyage

2009-12-06T22:21:00.000-08:00

The Orca has been sold and is setting sail for Hong Kong.

A Few More Pics

2009-11-28T10:53:00.001-08:00

So, I have to sell this baby. If you're interested check it out on EBay, just promise me you'll give her a good home.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Orca-Model-Boat-from-Jaws_W0QQitemZ280430645908QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item414af81294

Time to Set Sail!

2009-09-08T14:13:00.001-07:00

Finally!!!! It's done! Here's a few pics for now. I'll be posting more soon.

Unfortunately, I may have to part with this one and sell it. If anyone is interested email me.

A Boat-load of Accessories

2009-08-25T22:31:00.000-07:00

One of the most distinctive items that adorn the Orca is the set of shark jaws. Since I couldn't find a small shark swimming around Los Angeles I was forced to sculpt a set. Scuptey has a "hard" version that I hadn't used before but I thought it would be perfect for something like this.

And now for the boat-load of stuff...

Unimat

2009-08-09T21:51:00.001-07:00

I have to start by saying that I am no expert at using a lathe. Actually, I don't really know how to use one but I'm enjoying learning. I wanted to find something to do small parts and after searching the internet I found what I was looking for. It's called the Unimat 1 and it's made in Austria by The Cool Tool (http://www.thecooltool.com/). They have alot of different miniature tools but they're a little hard to get in the states. Although, I did find that Sherline does sell some of their products(http://www.sherline.com/).

Just to go off topic for a moment if you go over to Sherline's site you can have a look at their online museum (http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/). This is by far the greatest collection of miniatures I have seen. The work displayed there is simply breath taking.

Ok, back to the lathe. On the boat there are a couple of baseball bats (actually clubs) so I thought this would be a great opportunity to try out the lathe. It took some patience but I think it came out pretty good.

It's all in the details...

2009-07-30T11:40:00.000-07:00

It's been awhile since an update and there's alot that's happened. Now that the bulk of the building is complete it's time to focus more on the details. I started with one of my favorite pieces and that's the shark cage. It wasn't a very difficult part to build, I simply used Plastastruct strip styrene.

Typically for styrene I use Tenex7R but I figured I would give the Micro Mark equivalent a try. I have to say I really like this glue. You do have to be careful because it is really potent and can melt away your precious details if you aren't careful.

After construction was complete I hit the cage with a light coat of Primer.

One of the best paints to give you a metal-like finish is Alclad II. I've been using this stuff for years and it gives a really professional finish to your work.

You start by base coating the piece with Gloss Black. Alclad has a base coat they make for this but any gloss black paint will do.

After that dries you spray and I repeat spray on light coats of the metal paint. In order to get a really nice finish you have to use an airbrush with this stuff.

Casting the Barrels

2009-05-29T15:42:00.000-07:00

Now it's time to cast us some barrels. To start I need to remove the "master" from the mold. The plaster bandage will pry apart easily since the vaseline stops the plaster from bonding to itself. What we are left with is a one piece silicone mold. To make it easier to remove from the master and from the casts I use an X-Acto knife and make a slit down the side. I then carefully pull the silicone off the barrel.

Before I can fill the mold with resin I need to prep it. To start I dust the inside of the mold with some baby powder and blow away the excess with an air can. I then put the silicone back into the mother mold and carefully re-align the seam. There is no need to use a mold release as the resin removes easily from the silicone.

After propping up the mold I prepare the resin. For the barrels I am using Smooth-On's "Smoothcast 300" resin. It is mixed 1:1 by volume and is really easy to use.

I mixed up both parts and slowly pour the resin into the mold. In order to assure that there were no air bubbles trapped I lightly tapped the mold before the resin set up. This resin takes about 5 minutes to set and about 30 - 40 mins to fully cure.

After about 30 minutes I removed the resin from the mold and have a perfect replica of the original.

Barrels, Barrels, Barrels

2009-04-26T20:27:00.000-07:00

It's time to make some barrels. Before I get into the process I'm need to mention one company - Smooth-On(www.smooth-on.com). If you don't know who they are then get to know them! They are everything silicone and plastic so if you're going to be molding and casting your own parts this is the place to go - but more about that later.

Let's get started with the barrels. I started with a block of balsa wood and turned it in a lathe to a barrel shape. From there I coated the balsa in Aero Gloss Dope. This really helps seal the wood. When I was happy with the shape and look of the barrel I sprayed it with primer.

Now this is where Smooth-On comes into the picture. I wasn't going to make five separate barrels so I planned on making a master and molding the rest. To begin I glued the barrel on a piece of foam core. This is a base for the mold. In the past I have tried a few different silicones to make molds but this time I thought I would try Smooth-On's "ooMoo" - yes, that's what it's called. It is very simple to use and is a two-part silicone which you mix in a 1:1 ratio. After mixing the two parts together I began covering the barrel. At first I stippled the silicone over the barrel with a 1" chip brush then I slowly poured it over the top and let it drip down. With a craft stick I then made sure it was covered on all four sides. This silicone takes about 75 minutes to cure but it begins to setup in about 10 minutes so you have to work relatively quick.

The silicone is not stiff enough to cast as it is so there is a need to make a mother mold. I chose to make it from plaster bandages. Now that the silicone has cured (I left it overnight) I make a dividing wall down the center with plasticine clay. I then cover one half of the mold in plaster bandages and let that setup. This takes about 30 minutes. Now it's time to cover the other side but first I have to make sure the plaster bandages don't stick together. I remove the plasticine clay and then coat the plaster with vaseline on any surface that the new plaster will come in contact with it. As I did before I cover the other side and let the plaster bandages setup.

When everything is dry I crack open the plaster mother mold with a screw driver.

NEXT POST: CASTING THE BARRELS IN RESIN

The Mast Redux

2009-04-19T22:23:00.000-07:00

I was looking at my piles of reference photos and noticed something that I had overlooked. It was a detail that would neither make or break the build but I found it an interesting touch. At the very top of the mast there was a weather vane that had shark tails on it. Luckily I was able to find a closeup of the piece and it looks like the pole was made from an old fishing rod. So, after thinking about it I said why not and pulled out the brass and solder.

As with everything in life one thing leads to another and so I noticed my first pass at the lamp at the top of the mast didn't quite match the original. After studying the reference pic I knew that the shape was familiar. So I scanned the garage and right there in front of me was what I needed - the cap from a testor's bottle of paint.

Ladders, Railings, & Chairs

2009-04-16T21:41:00.000-07:00

Continuing on with the details - and an abundance there are aboard the Orca. I decided that there were a few details that would be easier to create with piano wire than plastic. I started with the ladder and after cutting the wire to length I began soldering. To solder the wire together I use a small torch to heat the wire then apply the solder to the joint. This process takes alot of practice to do correctly and SAFELY. Always be aware of how hot the parts get while you are working on something like this. Adding flux paste to the joint prior to heating it will help the solder to flow around the joint evenly.

The frame for the deck chair.

The railing that holds the barrels.

Railing attached to the boat.

On the actual boat there where areas of the railings that were covered in rope. Just wrapping these areas in thread would not accurately represent rope in miniature so I had to make "rope". I started by taking three lengths of thread and secured them in a vise. The other end of the threads I locked into the chuck of my cordless drill. Then using a slow setting on the drill I twisted the threads together to create the "rope". If I then removed the rope at this point it would just unravel so I had to keep it together. I then took white glue and covered the rope with it and let it dry. When it still felt tacky I took the rope out of the vise and drill and wrapped it around the railing. With the glue still tacky it helped keep the rope stuck to the wire.

Part 2!!

2009-03-27T23:05:00.000-07:00

It's here! Part 2 of the article on the Orca in the latest issue of Psyco Styrene. Be sure to pick it up.

www.psychostyrene.co.uk/

Back to the Workbench for Details

2009-03-10T23:12:00.000-07:00

I've been side tracked lately building and refinishing furniture so the Orca has been stuck in dry dock collecting dust. Now that things have settled down it's back on the workbench and I'm back to work. To ease back into it I started work detailing the transom.

I needed to add a moulding around the edges so I went to my trusty poster board and cut out a template first to test fit.

After I was happy with the template I transferred the shape to a piece of sheet balsa and cut it out.

The same goes for the letters that make up the infamous name except I cut those out in styrene.

Hidden behind the round plate(not sure what this is for on the real boat) I hid the jack for the DC transformer.

Just a few small details to complete the rear of the boat.

Stop the Presses!

2009-02-03T22:29:00.000-08:00

Well, I'm not sure that stopping the presses actually applies anymore these days...anyway, some exciting news regarding the Orca. Awhile ago I was contacted by a guy named Darren Llewellyn who publishes an online model magazine. Darren asked if I would write an article that would appear in his mag and I happily got to work. And it's finally here! The mag is called Pshyco Styrene and it's worth checking out, there's some really interesting articles in there including the back issues. Checkout the link and pick up the issue if you're interested. Darren is a really nice guy and does a great job supporting the hobby.

www.psychostyrene.co.uk

Dinner Time!

2009-01-27T21:56:00.001-08:00

At this point it was time to finish the interior. In order to create a scene that would be interesting and give the viewer something to look at I decided to recreate the dinner scene from the movie. For the most part I was able to use dollhouse accessories that I repainted and modified. There were some items that I did have to scratchbuild, the table, toolbox, hotplate, first aid kit, cb radio, etc.

To recreate the vinyl covering on the seat cushions I first sculpted the shape with Super Sculpey and then painted them with Tamiya Acrylics.

The Mast

2009-01-08T22:15:00.001-08:00

Happy Holidays!! Well it may be a little late but progress has been slow over the holidays in the garage. I did manage to get some work done so I wanted to update you on the progress. I started work on the mast which is made from a 3/8" diameter brass tubing. Based on the reference photos I detailed the mast with various bits of styrene. For the rungs I first drilled holes the length of the mast and then inserted pieces of brass rod. To create the winch I went to my parts box and put together a few small gears and some styrene bits. I then wwent ahead and sprayed a coat of primer on it.

Lights! Sound! Smoke!

2008-12-08T20:21:00.000-08:00

I really wanted this build to stand out from the rest so I thought I would add a few things that would do just that. The first was - lights. I studied the plans and the hundreds of screen grabs from the movie and decided to add lights in a number of places. I chose to light the cabin, navigation lights, a spot light and a light atop the mast. I wanted to keep everything with the boat self contained so I made sure when I purchased the lights they could be run off a 9volt battery. This wasn't a problem as many miniature lights are in that range. I ran the wiring towards the back of the boat where there was a hatch. The hatch was designed to be access to the R/C equipment but my build isn't R/C so it was the perfect place for my switch and battery box. In order to make the hatch removable I mounted a couple of magnets to it.

The lights alone really help bring the boat to life but it wasn't enough for me - I wanted more. The smoke stack is so prominent on the deck that I thought it would be neat to have it functional. I figured this wouldn't be too hard to do since most model railroads can accomplish this. I remembered seeing a small smoke unit in the Micro Mark catalog and after taking a look at it I was sure it would be just the right size.

I only had one small problem - it needed at least 12volts to function. This meant I would have to have it run off a DC Transformer. Glancing over the reference photos I noticed a round plate on the back of the transom and it gave me an idea - it was the perfect place to hide a transformer jack!

I was able to mount the smoke unit under the deck and then I soldered together some brass tubing to recreate the stack.

Now, I could have stopped there but I just wasn't ready to. I had to have - sound! My first thought was to rip the guts out of one of those recordable greeting cards but I came across something better. I found a small electronic board that can record and playback two 20 second clips and the best part - it was cheap! Only $8.00!

I was able to get it from a place called Electronics123, they have a bunch of cheap electronic boards and accessories. If you have the time check out their site. For the speaker I mounted it out of sight inside the cabin and then mounted the board in the hatch. For one of the clips I chose to include the sound of the engine and for the other I felt there was nothing more fitting than Roy Scheider saying, "You're gonna need a bigger boat."

Happy Thanksgiving!

2008-11-30T19:08:00.000-08:00

Okay, I'm a little late and progress has been a bit slow over the holiday. Unfortunately, the progress brought me one step back and not forward. The front of the boat was looking off and so I had to completely reshape it. Also, the putty I had used cracked and need to be replaced. It was something that I wasn't able to see until I sprayed a coat of primer on it. After replacing the offending piece with 1/32" plywood I coated it with red glazing putty and sanded that to shape.

I was then able to add some small details to the hull that I noticed looking at my reference photos. I'm not sure what their purpose may be but they add to the "reality".

Primer/Filler/Sand - Repeat!

2008-11-22T19:43:00.000-08:00

I had to go out of town for a week so it's been awhile since my last update. There's been a bit of progress as far as the hull goes. After the planks were all in place and roughly sanded I coated the outside of the hull with "Aero Gloss - Sanding Sealer". The fumes from this stuff can take down an elephant so ALWAYS wear a mask and use good ventilation. I apply it liberaly and then leave it to dry which is only a few minutes. I then go at it with 120grit sandpaper and then another coat of sanding sealer. I wound up with about four coats of sealer on it which really helps strengthen the balsa wood. If you take your time sanding you can make the finish as smooth as glass.

Now it was time for some primer. I like to spray the surface with primer at this point which really brings out all the flaws.

Sometimes you can fix them with a little more sanding but the areas that need more work call for some filler. I like to use Red Auto Body Glazing Putty. You can buy a huge tube of this stuff and it lasts forever.

After you sand down the primer be sure to go over it with a fine wet/dry paper like 400grit and wet sand it. You can get a really nice finish wet sanding the auto body filler.

Walk to Plank!

2008-11-09T21:58:00.000-08:00

After all the ribs where in place it was time to cover the hull. I picked up a few sheets of 1/8" balsa wood and ripped them into 3/4" strips on the table saw. It takes time to keep everything straight and even, but it saves you time in the end. When all the planks were in place I went at it with sand paper. I started with a heavy paper, I think it was 60 grit in order to rough out the shape. Using 1/8" think balsa allows some room to smooth the surface even if the planks are a little uneven.

What in the world is a "Transom"?

2008-11-02T20:31:00.000-08:00

...or a "chine" or a "keel"???? I had no idea when I first started this project. And after a long trial and error period I now know what they all mean.

I blame this whole project on a friend of mine that innocently mentioned to me that he'd never seen a model of the Orca. We talked about it for a bit and after ten minutes he said "so you're going to build it aren't you"? He knows me too well, there was no way I was going to walk away from the idea of building the infamous Orca.

Like I mentioned before my knowledge of boat building was next to nothing and having never tried it I was a little hesitant. I made some calculations off of the limited number of pictures, the movie and searching the Internet and drew up some crude plans. I decided to move forward and try forming the hull. I completed a hull which wasn't bad from a construction view, but it wasn't the Orca.

I then happened upon a website that was selling a set of plans that someone created for an R/C version of the boat. The plans are by a guy named, Pat Tritle and he did a decent job of capturing the feel of the Orca. I went ahead and ordered the plans and went back to the beginning. I abandoned the original hull I built which wasn't a waste but a great learning experience. After looking over the plans I decided to start by cutting out the main parts of the hull from poster board and test fit everything together. This may have been overkill since I was working off a set of plans, but not having done this before it helped me see the process clearer.

Dun...Dun...

2008-10-28T20:26:00.000-07:00

Ahoy!, Arrrrr!, Aye Mate-y! Okay, so my only knowledge of the sea is from pirate movies and...Jaws. The latter is the influence for my next project - The Orca. So stay tuned for the online build of my first scratch built model boat. Unfortunately, I know nothing about boats so this is going to be interesting.

Y-Wing Beauty Shots

2008-10-27T20:02:00.000-07:00

I think they speak for themselves...enjoy.

White

2008-10-23T22:44:00.000-07:00

Well, not quite white. After the primer was left to dry for a day I moved on to the paint. I used Floquil paints again and the more I use them the more I like them. The only downside if the smell, so make sure you use proper ventilation and wear a good mask if you try these paints. Anyway, back to the not quite white. I mixed white paint with a hint of gray in it so that the white isn't so bright. It gives it a nice subdued color for the base. After the white was left to dry I sprayed a coat of Testor's Dullcoat over it before I moved on to weathering with pastels.

Primer

2008-10-19T18:53:00.001-07:00

Is Primer a scratchbuilder's best friend or worst enemy? Well, it can be both depending on how good of a job you did before you sprayed it. When you spray that first coat of primer all those bits and pieces that you glued together finally congeal and become one creation. And that is what should happen! But if you cut corners and rush through your build the primer will shine a spotlight on every defect and magnify it a thousand times. So, the lesson is to take your time and get it right otherwise you will be just setting yourself up for disappointment. More than likely it took you months to get to this point so why rush it now when you're in the home stretch? But, if you do come across any problems this is the time to fix them. So, go back and fill, sand, wet sand, and prime again until it's perfect.

The best part of the Y-Wing - all those greeblies!

A Whole Lotta Brass Tubing

2008-10-16T20:12:00.000-07:00

A distinct feature of the Y-Wing is the twisted network of pipes that cover the fuselage. ILM used brass tubing that was covered in plastic, but getting all the sizes needed was a problem. I decided to just use plain old brass tubing. All of the pieces used are solid brass because it's easier to get clean bends with it as opposed to hollow tubing which tends to kink. I used pliers to cut the pieces to length and then sanded the edges down on the sanding wheel.

I also used brass tubing for the guns at the front.

More Canopies & Cockpits

2008-10-14T20:46:00.000-07:00

The cockpits of the original models were never really detailed so you can use the fullsize props as a guide. For the most part I just had some fun and made it look functional. It's mainly some tank parts and a few pieces of scrap wire. I chose not to do any lighting on this model so there was no need to run any fiber optic in here. That did allow me to get through this pretty quick.

And after a coat of primer it all comes together...

To get the shape of the canopy I first carved it out of balsa foam. When I was happy with that I built the pieces over the shape. As before I first cut all the shapes out of poster board and then used them as a template for the styrene.

California is Burning

2008-10-13T16:15:00.000-07:00

There are some serious fires burning here in California today. Fortunately, we have some of the best firefighters and they do an incredible job keeping us safe. Thank you to all the fire fighters that have been battling these fires.

R5-D4

2008-10-10T19:50:00.000-07:00

Yes, R2-D2's ugly cousin. I knew when I started this project I didn't want to put another R2 unit in it. I wanted it to be different from my X-Wing. So, I went ahead with the version that had the R5 unit. Construction was no different from the R2 I made previously. The main structure is a styrene tube covered with a bunch of styrene bits.

It's amazing how a simple coat of primer brings everything together.

L'eggs & The Easter Bunny

2008-10-08T20:41:00.000-07:00

Okay, so there's no Easter Bunny but there are plastic eggs involved. If you're not familiar with one of ILM's favorite "found" parts then you didn't recognize what makes up the front of the engines. Back in the 70's a very common package that pantyhose came in was a plastic egg. Specifically L'egg's which they no longer use to package their product. Instead you have to hunt them down on EBay. Unfortunately, there is group of people out there that collect them so getting a hold of them is easier said than done so when you do get one - make a mold!

The front of the engines uses the top of the egg container and the back of the engines uses the bottom. Cutting the container to the correct size is a bit of a challenge. After some trial and error I filled the egg with expanding foam. After the foam was dry I cut then down to size on the table saw. It worked like a charm.

Mounting Holes & Flanges

2008-10-05T17:36:00.000-07:00

Like I mentioned in the last post I lost alot of the early pics so I'll have to do my best to describe what we're missing.

The main body was first fashioned in balsa, but like the X-Wing the wings were acrylic covered in styrene. The acrylic will hold the weight of the engines at the ends without sagging. I just want to mention the mounting points on the model. Unlike the filming models I don't need to have mounting holes in any specific area based on shot requirements so it was up to me to find the appropriate locations. I chose to put one mounting hole in the rear and one at the bottom. Having two mounting points allowed me some flexibility during construction. I like to use galvanized plumbing pipe to mount the models because of the strength. Inside the body I recess a coupling and secure it with epoxy. The other end is attached to a piece of wood with a pipe flange mounted to it. I clamp the wooden base to the workbench and it keeps the model from falling to the floor. It's a method I use when I work on a sculpture and it works well here too.

The shape of the nose that holds the cockpit is tough to get right. That took me the most amount of time. After shaping it in balsa I had to cover it in styrene but the curves made that harder than it sounds. If I had to do it again I would vacuum form the styrene over the balsa. It would not only be alot easier it would look better. The cockpit canopy is another really tough shape to get right. I first carved the shape out of balsa foam and then built the styrene pieces over it. Before I started cutting the styrene I did a mockup in poster board in order to make templates. Working things out in poster board saves you from ruining your more expensive styrene while you get things just right.

Scratchbuilt Studio Scale Y-Wing

2008-10-03T20:25:00.000-07:00

After I finished the X-Wing I was hooked on scratchbuilding and so the search for my next project was on. The whole time I was working on the X-Wing I had the idea of doing the Y-Wing next but the amount of kits to fill it up seemed overwhelming. Eventually I got up the nerve to begin working on a set of plans and so it was back to the bible - "Star Wars Chronicles". As with most of the models there is a great picture of one of the Y's so I started by blowing it up to the SS size. I had a reference photo that showed it was approximately 28" long so I had a good starting point.

Unfortunately, during the build I had a computer crash and I lost alot of my progress pics. I now backup alot more often! So, instead I am going to have to explain how I started this bird. As with the X-Wing I made the initial shapes out of balsa wood. The main body of the ship is a lesson in geometry under all those layers of greeblies. The one tool that became invaluable was my mini tablesaw that is made by Micro Mark.

If you don't have one I suggest you get one. It is well worth the investment and will pay for itself in a short amount of time. If you're not familiar with Micro Mark it's worth checking out. They carry alot of tools and supplies specifically for model makers.

Just Some Beauty Shots

2008-10-01T22:31:00.001-07:00

Space Dust...

2008-09-30T20:14:00.001-07:00

...or whatever it is that makes those Star Wars ships so dirty. And so I continue adding layers of pastels in different colors.

Masking Tape & Weathering

2008-09-29T21:14:00.000-07:00

Masking off the wings can test your patience. Luckily they are just basic shapes and after you make a mask for the right wing it works for both so you only need to make two. I applied dabs of liquid mask in the areas of the red markings and let them dry. After I sprayed the red I scraped off the liquid mask and it resembled chipped paint. That was the first step towards weathering - and there's alot of it on Star Wars models.

Now it's on to the serious weathering, but before I start I coat the whole model with dull coat. I really like Testor's dull coat because it dries fast and has an even flat look. Then I diluted some oil paints (the kind that come in a tube) with thinner. I thin the paint down approximately 5 parts thinner to 1 part paint. I then brush this over small areas at a time. The wash brings out alot of the details that disappear in the solid white surface - especially the panel lines. Before it dries completely I wipe the excess off witha clean rag. After that dries I spray on another coat of dull coat to seal it.

This is the point when I like to use pastels to weather further. The pastels are ground down to a powder and you can apply them with a brush, sponge, Q-Tip, anything you like. The idea is to get the effect you want no matter what technique you use. It is really easy to get carried away when you're weathering so proceed slowly and refer to your reference photos often.

Remember, although you may be working on a fictitious vehicle you can still refer to real world things that you can use to apply to it. Looking at an old truck that has alot of wear and tear can inspire you to add things like oil stains, chipped paint, dents, burn marks, the list goes on. Using real world elements brings an added sense of realism to your work so look around and collect pictures.

Time to Paint!

2008-09-27T15:00:00.000-07:00

With everything built I moved on to the finish. The first thing I did was sand the entire model and filled any gaps that may still be present. When I was satisfied with that I primed the model. I like to use Tamiya Surface Primer Light. It's a very thin primer that doesn't fill in tiny details or clog scribed panel lines.

For the paint I wasn't sure which to use. Typically I use Tamiya model paint which I like alot especially when using it with an airbrush. When ILM painted their original models they used paint from a company called Floquil. Well, Floquil is still in business so I went ahead and ordered some paint and gave it a shot.

I started by spraying the whole model with Reefer White mixed with a little Gray. I let that dry overnight. The next day I lightly sanded the white with a very fine sand paper. Now it's time for the masking. There are alot of different stripes and marks on the XWing and there are a few different versions. I decided to go with Luke Skywalker's version - Red 5.

Alot of the colors may seem bright and pronounced at this point but they will become muted when I begin weathering.

Wings, Wings & More Wings

2008-09-24T21:05:00.000-07:00

On to the wings and there's plenty of them. After working everything out on paper I decided the easiest way to tackle this was to work on them as if it were an assembly line. Doing it that way helped keep a consistency through all of them. The basic shape was cut in acrylic which I sheeted with styrene. The acrylic is much stronger at keeping its shape and wouldn't sag over time.

The wings include a few model parts but most of them I scratch built. It took alot of time especially the guns.

Here is a detail of the back of the engine. The part in the center is a heatsink.

The underside of the wings was the fun part. The design has the engines exposed and that's were I took liberty and dressed them up how I wanted.

When they were done I went ahead and test fit them onto the fuselage. I decided to keep the wings in the fixed open position.

Canopies & Cockpits

2008-09-21T18:38:00.001-07:00

Now that the fuselage is done on the outside its time to move in. I ran the fiber optics into the cockpit and under the R2 unit. After drilling 20 or so holes into the instrument panel I ran a fiber optic into each hole. A good lesson I learned while doing this is that fiber optics and Cyanoacrylate glue DO NOT mix. The fiber becomes brittle and just cracks when the glue is setting and so I wound up having to re-do it. It's better to set the fiber in place with either epoxy or hot glue.

Time for more "kitbashing" to fill up the cockpit. I used alot of parts from airplanes and some photoetched tank parts. By molding alot of the parts I was able to make multiple copies and repeat certain ones. I didn't really follow the original model I just made it look functional.

The canopy was the tricky part. It took alot of patience to get the shape just right. I started by making a mock-up in thick paper. When I was happy with it I used the paper as a guide to cut the styrene. To avoid the glare from the lights during shooting the original models didn't have any windows. I decided not to include "glass" either because I liked the way it looked.

Droids

2008-09-17T21:14:00.001-07:00

So, the "R2 strip" wouldn't be complete without...well - R2D2! R2 was made from some tube styrene, styrene strips and a plastic dome. I used an LED for the "eye" but all the lighting on the droid was done with fiber optics.

After I was happy with the results I painted it and test fit into the space on the strip.

Greeblies & Silicone

2008-09-17T21:14:00.000-07:00

Now it's time for the fun part - kitbashing! The strip behind the R2 unit is filled with "greeblies" from all sorts of models kits - ships, tanks, etc. After I found the kits I needed (mostly off of EBay) I glued all the parts onto a piece of foam core with a 1/2" wall surrounding it. I sealed the seams with hot glue to prevent and of the silicone from leaking out.

With the mold ready to go I mixed up the silicone and poured it in. In order to avoid getting air bubbles from forming I placed the mold on the floor and poured from about 6 feet off the the ground. You have to keep a thin steady stream until the mold is filled so you have to get comfortable before you start pouring.

After the silicone cured up over night I removed it and began filling it with resin. I like using a 2 part resin from Bragdon Industries which is pretty easy to use and very forgiving. When I had the parts I needed I began filling in the "R2 Strip" according to the original model. It may not be 100% accurate but it captures the feel of the original.

Nose Cones & Styrene

2008-09-16T21:02:00.000-07:00

After I was finally happy with the fuselage shape (I took forever!) I covered the whole thing in .020 sheet styrene. I used spray on contact cement and it worked really well. If a corner lifted up I would then go back and secure it with some CA. I then moved on to the nose cone which was carved out of balsa and then covered in styrene like the body.

After everything was covered I sanded it down using progressively finer sand papers. I usually start at 400 grit and go to 12000 grit. There's a great sanding pad kit you can get from Micro Mark with really fine grit. I like to wet sand because it keeps from heating the plastic while you're sanding.

To fill any seams I use Automotive Red Glazing Putty. You get a pretty large tube and it lasts a lifetime.

India Turns 3!

2008-09-16T20:05:00.001-07:00

The Model Garage Foreman, "India" turned 3 today. She's a Golden Retriever that we rescued 2 years ago and she's been at my side in the garage ever since.

Scratchbuilt Studio Scale X-Wing

2008-09-14T17:59:00.000-07:00

My first scratchbuilt project was the X-Wing. I started it a few years back and really enjoyed it. I also learned alot along the way and it probably took me longer to finish it than it should have, but it was worth it. From start to finish it took me about 1 year of nights and weekends. So, although it is complete I'm going to chronicle the build here from the beginning.

I started off by blowing up pictures of the original studio model to approximately 2 feet long. I used pictures from what has become known as the "bible" of Star Wars models - "Chronicles". An expensive book but well worth every penny. From there I started with a block of balsa wood and carved it to shape.

I continued to refine the shape. I spent alot of time trying to get it right before I moved on.

Probe Droid

2008-09-11T20:07:00.000-07:00

I always seem to have my next project looming and the Probe Droid is it this time. There was a great kit out not long ago, but I find it alot more fun and rewarding to scratchbuild it myself. I started planning this one early because I wanted to add some electronics to the kit and I wanted time to figure it out.

Along with that kit there was an electronic add-on kit by Hyperdyne that moved the head and had lights and sound. I'm pretty good at electronics, but when it comes to microcontrollers I always hesitated. I knew to accomplish this I would have to attempt learning how to program a PIC microcontroller. I started asking around on the boards and someone suggested getting a PICAXE chip instead.

Basically, Picaxe chips are PIC microcontrollers that allow you program them in BASIC. I found this to be so much easier to learn and in just a few days I figured out how to write the program to do exactly what I wanted! It was pretty exciting - well at least it was to me. Anyway, when I finally get around to building this I'll do a how-to on the electronics. If you want to get more info on Picaxe chips check them out here: www.rev-ed.co.uk/picaxe/

If you have any questions just drop me an email and I will try my best to help you out.

Orca

2008-09-10T21:14:00.000-07:00

When you watch the movie Jaws one of the most memorable characters is the boat itself. I started working on this awhile ago and need to get back to it sometime soon. I will be updating this one in the near future so stay tuned...

KAHN!!!!

2008-09-07T21:15:00.000-07:00

The Enterprise has been destroyed! This was a total bummer. I had an idea for a new base that I wanted to build so I was examining the mount that I built into the model. Well, I underestimated the weight of the model when I built it and it just didn't hold. Without that mount there was no saving the model so I started to take it apart. I came across a few people on the internet that were doing a version of the model with the saucer damaged like in The Wrath of Kahn. I really liked the idea of doing another version like that. My plan was to get another kit and chop it up to make the "Kahn" version - well there's no need to buy a new kit now. This one is going to have to go into my future projects bin until I can get to it. Battle damage versions are more fun anyway.

Enterprise 1701 Refit

2008-08-06T16:04:00.000-07:00

The Polar Lights 1/350 scale Enterprise is a really great looking kit. At 3 feet long this model is huge! The minute you open the box the kit begs for you to do an elaborate lighting job on it and that's exactly what I did. I lit the whole model using various LEDs about 80+. There are two sets of navigation lights that blink at different rates so I built two small circuit boards with 555 timers. The aztec pattern on the exterior takes alot of time and patience, but you can get vinyl masks that make the job alot easier.

North American P-51 Mustang

2008-08-05T14:43:00.000-07:00

This is an RC kit by Top Flight which is about 1/8 scale of the North American P-51 Mustang. I started building this kit about 12 years ago and never finished it. I was about three quarters done when I decided to move out west and work in "hollywood". Unfortunately, my tiny studio apartment was no place for a model that had a 50" wingspan so I had to leave it behind.

And so there is sat in my parents attic until last year when my father decided to finish it. He did a great job and it was nice to finally see it done!

Unfortunately, during its 3rd flight the battery unexpectedly died and the P-51 nose dived into the dirt...

The good news is the plane is back together and should be ready to fly again in a couple of weeks.

Reaper

2008-08-04T22:00:00.000-07:00

I'm a big fan of Blade 2 and the design of the Reaper was one of the most original vampires in years. I couldn't help but make my own version of it. I only have one pic of the early stage of the sculpt since I did this a few years ago but you get the idea.

The final cast is made of silicone that was pulled from a silicone and plaster mold.

Werewolf

2008-08-02T22:16:00.000-07:00

I always loved the design of the werewolf that Rick Baker created for An American Werewolf in London and that was the inspiration for this piece. It's made out of silicone that I cast from a mold I made from the original sculpture.

Here are few pics of the original sculpt. I like using a clay called "pro-clay" which is a sulfur-free oil based clay. The best part of it is that when you heat it the clay softens so you can work quickly on the initial build up. When it cools the clay hardens again and you can work on the details.

Frank's Paintings

2008-08-01T22:41:00.000-07:00

Just a small collection of paintings I've done over the years. Some of them I really like and others not so much. I've painted in acrylics, watercolor, gouche, but my favorite is oils.

Velociraptor

2008-07-08T19:58:00.000-07:00

Another one of the Horizon kits this one was only slightly smaller than the T-Rex weighing in at just 3 feet from head to tail. Again, another painstakingly rendered kit. These were really fun to build and paint.

T-Rex

2008-07-07T19:50:00.000-07:00

This thing is a beast! Literally. The model which is made by Horizon measures 4 feet head to tail. The detail is really well done on every part of the body. It was a vinyl kit which you don't see much of anymore. Vinyl kits had their "hay-day" in the late 90's and I really miss seeing them in the hobby store. There were alot of small garage kits with some really unique designs. Horizon was a bigger company that put out alot of licensed kits, Freddy, Jason, Ash from Evil Dead, etc. Then they came out with 3 dinosaur kits and all of them had a similarity - the were BIG!

Skeksis

2008-07-02T10:49:00.000-07:00

This is a resin model I painted years ago. I'm not sure who the artist was that made it but the likeness is dead-on. It really is a beautiful piece.

Yoda

2008-07-01T10:36:00.000-07:00

This is a bust I did of the character Yoda. My plans were to create an animatronic puppet from it but it never made it that far. I'm sure one of these days I'll get back to it.

Below are a few pics of the first silicone cast I pulled from the mold. It's pretty rough so if I ever get back to this project I'll probably make another one.